Jenmenke

Road Warrior

organic

World’s Best Dandelion Digger

That is not an attention grabbing headline, guys. I’m serious. This thing is insane.

But, I suppose I should qualify that statement by telling you that my previous tool had been the same one my mom handed to me when I was 10 and sent me out the front door. You know the one — a 14″ long single handle fork. You had to bend over or sit on the ground, dig it into concrete-like clay soil, swear, curse and complain, only to have the dandelion break at the top of the stem? Yeah, that one.

So, when I say “World’s Best”, the competition wasn’t all that impressive.

Still. This is one amazing tool, if only for the fact that you can use it standing up. Many times, it gets the whole dang root. If that isn’t the most exciting, satisfying high, I don’t know what is.

And here is where I waiver a bit…

How important is it, really, to eradicate dandelions? Especially where I live, out in the country:

That field above is ‘prairie grass.’ Actually that field is weeds. I have no idea why the prairie grass didn’t take there, but we still treat it like prairie grass. And the weeds are definitely winning. So you’ve got this meadow of dandelions. And then you’ve got this manicured lawn butting up to it. And I waiver…

Cuz I’m a fairly organic kind of girl, and getting more so as I get older. I just don’t like the idea of rolling around in a sea of poison. But that’s what you’ve gotta do to keep the dandelions away unless you dig them out. And frankly, that seems down right impossible — though I’m going to try. Because Weed-B-Gone is about the worst of the worst when it comes to toxicity and longevity in the soil. I. Hate. Weed-B-Gone.

Now here’s where things really get hypocritical: I just fertilized the grass and the fertilizer had crab grass preventer. Dave bought it, not me, because he thinks my organic bend is silly and stupid. Yes, we probably need to keep the crab grass at bay. But has anyone read the bag? It’s SCAREY! That stuff sits on the surface of the soil, doing its thing for SIX WEEKS! So there I am with the dog, rolling around on little poison pellets. Isn’t that crazy? For a manicured lawn? Still, I’m the one who spread the stuff. I am surely a hypocrite or organic philosophy.

Now don’t be going all namby-pamby in the comment section. Yes, I have tried corn gluten meal, and other various organic weed control and fertilizer products. For years. And I don’t buy it. I think contractors use crappy soil, I think sod is crappy and thatch-ridden and you live with it and deal with it forever after. I have wild grass that has escaped the ‘lawn’ into the adjoining prairie, where the dirt is natural and isn’t part of the sod and it is so healthy! Too bad I don’t WANT the grass there…

Anyway. That’s my dilemma for the day. It is my debate for the duration. It is my anguish come August.

…And it is my life for the next week while I listen to The Seamstress on my iPhone and dig dandelions with the World’s Best Dandelion Digger.

Plant your Garlic Now! Quick, before New Moon Comes Out!

Garlic harvest in July. Ready for eating or replanting!(Headline was a cheap-attention getter, sorry.)

I don’t know why I thought I already wrote this piece, but I swear I did. Maybe I dreamed it.

Get ready, because I’m planning to boss you guys around. Again. It seems like all I do is tell everyone what to do and why they should do it. Well. I don’t care. You should plant garlic. You really should. It is super easy and the difference between store bought and home grown garlic is vast. Not as vast as the difference between a store bought and home grown tomato (what is?), but still vast. And the best part? Easy to peel! I hate to peel garlic (and shallots and onions). In fact, if and when I run out of garden garlic, I far prefer to buy huge jars of already-peeled whole garlic — practically as horrid as garlic salt, if many gourmands are to be believed — hideous, refrigerated whole garlic! …rather than to buy and peel the tissue thin skin of a store bought clove of garlic.

You don’t need much room to grow garlic. You don’t need great soil. But. And this is a big but: You need to plant it NOW! The first week of November is a good time for Zone 3 and 4 gardeners. If you are warmer, just make sure to do it before the ground freezes, but not early enough to let the little buggers sprout. If a prolonged warm spell is still possible in your neck of the woods, hold off.

To plant your first crop of garlic, you have to order it from a garden catalog. I love Territorial, Pinetree, kitchengardenseeds.com and others. It’s a good idea to find a seller that is close to where you garden, or at least in the same type of climate and zone. Garlic adapts to where it grows. So it stands to reason that garlic purchased from a seller that grows its crop in a climate like yours will grow better in your own garden. Hopefully, that will be the last time you have to buy garlic to plant, because ideally, you will save a portion of your harvest and plant those cloves the next Fall.

[UPDATE: A commenter mentioned something that made me realize something I should have mentioned: if you have a farmer’s market that sells organic garlic grown in your area that you love, YOU CAN PLANT THAT TOO! The benefits are that you know what it looks like, you can taste it, it’s probably a good deal, etc. etc. Thanks to freshnewengland.blogspot.com for jangling my brain.]

It does happen that you can lose your crop, as has happened to me once, over the course of a particularly brutal and snow-free Minnesota winter about 4 or 5 years ago. It was very sad, but I have moved on.

It is also helpful to take notes on what type of garlic you grow. And if you grow more than one variety, to keep track of where it is planted and what bag or box it is put in when it is harvested. That way, when someone says, “That is beautiful and delicious garlic! What variety is it?” You can say, “Why, thank you for asking. It is Inchilleum Red.” Instead of, “Um. Polish Red? Longkeeper? I have no idea…” Like I end up saying every year. Even when given the opportunity to start from scratch four years ago, I did not learn that valuable lesson. So learn from me, and make a note.

Planting it couldn’t be easier. 1) Loosen the soil.

Turn over & loosen the soil (here shown with dead clippings on top)

2) Separate the cloves. Discard (and eat) the itty bitty cloves.

Plant about 6" apart

3) Push individual cloves, pointy side up, one to two inches below the surface of the soil.

Push into soil

4) Smooth over and cover with something to protect area from being disturbed if you have dogs, cats, chickens or other curious varmints.

varieties (who knows which) separated by green posts.(Please ignore the drunken, wavy formaldehyde infused fake wood. I assure you. The stuff usually works great.)

5) After the ground freezes, if you are worried about very severe cold with no snow protection, you can mulch with hay or leaves. Just don’t do it too early, as you don’t want the prevent the ground from getting cold and freezing, which would encourage growth.

Next spring, clear the bed and amend the soil with a little compost scattered here and there, don’t worry about working it in. You don’t want to damage the cloves which are just below the surface. Water as you would anything else in the garden and harvest when the tops fall over. If you planted a hard neck variety, you’ll want to cut off the scapes to keep the energy directed to the development of the bulb. You can saute the scapes, they are delicious.

So that’s it for garlic. Does it appease the guilt and shame that I have about not finishing the Apple Madness posts? That I only have part one finished? That all I can think about is the ugly and probably festering apples in the cooler outside that should be in the four remaining pie crusts that are awaiting rollout in my fridge?

NO! Now LEAVE ME ALONE! I’ve got a book to read. And it’s so good, too… Hope none of my clients are reading this.